At eight thirty in the evening, the last rays of the sun shined in the sky.

For a moment, the pigeons spread their wings and circled in the dark red sky. I don't know what happened to panic these pigeons, I only heard a cannon from a distance:

In front of the blue mosque began to broadcast, the ancient minarets heard the sounds of chanting. For many Muslims, the day of real life is only now beginning: iftar, a family hugs bread happily on the grass, and many children let go and chase on the street.

Turkish cats everywhere

Behind me, the brick-red Hagia Sophia is still silently gazing at all this.

This hope is 1,500 years.

At this moment, I'm standing in the center of the city, but I'm also at the center of Eastern and Western civilization, listening, watching, and imagining. Time seems to have lost its traces, and civilization, once rooted here, is reluctant to leave.

Here is Istanbul, the "city" in Greek at dusk

New Rome, Byzantium, Constantinople ... Each one of Istanbul's former names has witnessed the rich history of this magical city. As a bridge between East and West, Istanbul has built a rich and unique cultural landscape, both literally and symbolically, with the symmetrical beauty of Islamic design and the intricacies of Christian murals and architecture. At the same time, 15 million city dwellers also made her the throne of "the largest city in Europe".

Even if we close our eyes, we can feel the strong pulse of the city, and each zone is more like a completely different and unique world: the strange sound of the traveler from the center of the fallen empire, To the delightful jazz wafting over Besiktas; or the noise from the tumult of Taksim Square, to the stubble of Lakreke slamming into the glass in Kadikoy block, clanging ...

In Istanbul, there are always more mysteries to discover, more echoes to listen to, more exotic fragrances to smell. All we need to do is to close our eyes and hit the sound of the waves from the East hitting the rocks scattered in the West.

Istanbul, from here to a whole new world, could not be more suitable.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

one

"I want the world to remember me, and I want to open the store to Paris and Rome."

I walked in the city, passing by the enthusiastic croaks, the long and intoxicating singing voice of the street artist, the sea water slammed against the Marmara coast, the driver stepped on the brakes to tear the dusk, and countless sounds intertwined Together, led me to explore different corners of the city.

Looking at the watch, the hustle and bustle of the night gradually dissipated, my companion Magdalena and I walked a little tired, and my stomach was reluctant to continue walking. Walking through the old city of Istanbul, the endless barbeque restaurants have been closed during the day; however, there is a shop with bright lights under the dim street lights and several motorcycles and bicycles parked in front of the door.

Istanbul port streets at night

We headed for a Buklava shop, so we found a table outside the door and sat down. The boss saw that we were both exhausted, so he asked the man to serve baklava, and served with Turkish black tea, and sat at our table. After adding sugar, the mellow and warm black tea touched my stomach. The boss grinned at the happy expression on my face. He took out his phone and showed me an instagram video taken by a customer. The huge # Peşrevzade tag advertised this restaurant.

"My family has been running this restaurant since 1877," owner Cem proudly introduced to me.

This 141-year history is enough to be considered an old Ottoman. I compared my thumbs and wanted to know the story behind this food: "What time does your store open every day? Do you run here all day?"

"Our store is open until two in the morning, but I won't stay here all day, and I will be a TV host two hours a day."

Seeing this boss in front of me, it is difficult for me to associate him with media, film and television, "What show do you host?"

"Culture, including food, music, poetry."

"I believe no one is better at hosting food shows than you!"

Turkish Food Pide

At this time, there was a Middle Eastern style music in the distance, surrounded by the quiet streets and alleys. My companion Magdalena was curious: "What is this song about?"

Cem frowned, thinking for a long time before thinking of this more complicated English word: "Melancholy (meaning depressed, sad)" After finishing speaking, he also hummed to the melody for a sentence or two.

In this sorrow, a bite of baklava, a crispy crust and crispy walnuts played a wonderful ensemble in the mouth. My question came up again, "Are you more interested in being a host, or more interested in being a gourmet shop owner?"

"The owner of a gourmet shop, of course, is the boss!" He smiled heartily, "I have opened 3 branches in 8 months!"

In the Istanbul catering industry, which is comparable to Chengdu, I once again gave a thumbs up to this expansion speed, "then your dream is to expand your store to the whole of Turkey, right?"

"It's not just Turkey. I want the world to remember me. I want to open the store to Paris and Rome." He said, opening his arms and imagining his future global business. "But," he said sharply. "This is not my dream. This is reality."

Seeing my ambitious surprise, he explained: "If you don't imagine, nothing will come true. I can imagine it because God gave me this talent."

I nodded and continued to ask, "What is your dream now?"

"I want to leave this country."

"Why?" This answer surprised me. I didn't expect that his dream was to leave his homeland.

"Because in Turkey, different ideas are not very popular. I may be wrong, but I look forward to respect for different opinions in this country, but this is not the current situation in Turkey." He tapped his phone carefully, for fear of hitting A word was wrong, causing Google Translate to misunderstand what he meant.

"Then where do you want to go?"

"I want to go to a quieter place, Canada, Northern Europe, where no one will judge you for your language, religion, or culture. Turkey is too complicated now."

At this point, I realized that this was the life he really wanted. Before we left, he still reminded me to promote his restaurant on instagram. I looked back at this restaurant, wishing his business continued to flourish, and I hope he can find the place that belongs to him.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bakery shop owner

two

"When you live for your dreams, you start to realize your dreams."

In the city of Istanbul, we certainly have to find our own organization.

At the invitation of UWC alumni, we came to the Beşiktaş restaurant area in Istanbul. We finally met him, the one we already knew from restaurant posters and other alumni.

His name is Akin, a Turk, a UWC Red Cross Nortic (Norwegian campus) alumni, and he is currently a comedian in Istanbul.

Poster of comedian Akin

"Jiu Yang Daiming."

We shook hands. He was wearing a straight white suit with eyes full of energy.

After a brief greeting, I was very curious about his career, "Why do you want to be a comedian after graduating from UWC?"

"I didn't immediately become a comedian after graduating. I went to college in the United States, and after graduation I became a reporter."

"Then why did you change your career?"

"Because of being a reporter in Turkey, like my dog, you never know what will happen after shit."

A few people at the same table couldn't help laughing, and confirmed that they were the people who did comedy.

"Reporters ca n’t even report on objective numbers. For example, when I ’m reporting on unemployment, if people do n’t make seasonal adjustments, others will let me add them; if I write seasonal Adjustments, and some people let me delete them. In short, no matter how you write, someone will always trouble you. "

"Then when did you start to be a comedian?"

"In April 2016, when ISIS carried out a terrorist attack in Turkey, they wanted to spread fear among people. But I wanted to say to them, 'f ** k you', I want to do the opposite of them, I think Make people laugh. "Since 16 years, ISIS has stretched its devil's claws successively to Turkey, Istanbul's tourist attractions, business districts, and airports. Terrorist attacks have occurred one after another, and people have been apprehensive. Friends said that there were fewer people on the street at that time. A lot.

"Is it your dream to be a comedian?"

"Yes, my dream is to bring all those‘ motherfuckers ’together, Turks, Kurds, Arabs ... make each of them laugh, let go of their burdens, and let them start a conversation.”

"Do you think this dream can be realized?" Because in Turkey now, it is more likely that it is not union but division. Kurds and Turks, secular and traditional Islam, different people are naturally classified, and the tension between them has intensified under the incitement of nationalism.

He smiled, looking at the lights in Istanbul outside the window, his hands together, leaking the watch on his left wrist.

"When you live for your dreams, you start to realize your dreams. I did two comedies at the UWC Norwegian campus, one in the United States, and now nine in Turkey. , My 10th issue will begin next week. "

I didn't have the opportunity to go to his drama this time, but I remembered his poster. In the middle of the theater, the light belongs to him alone, because nothing other than laughter is important.

He left in a hurry, and maybe there was another important meeting later. We shake hands and say goodbye, his hands are delicate but full of strength.

It was getting late and we were ready to return to our accommodation. Once out of the restaurant area, jubilant music came from the city square; for a while I thought I saw our square dance. But what I heard was not the legendary lotus pond moonlight of Phoenix, but the dense drums with Middle Eastern flavor.

People from different parties wave their flags, but dance together under the same song, which is completely different from the sizzling and endless fighting of voters in the day. They held hands, kicked their feet, and danced in a circle. Night is far less complicated than day.

I don't know how Akin felt when he saw this scene, but I'm sure this is what he wants to see.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Different parties dance "square dance"

Three

"Ibiao" foreigner

On the last day, we made the final preparations before riding. Every time I return to the hotel, I see the young Milad. He is responsible for the front desk throughout the day, and his only friends are the computer and mobile phone in front of him. He should be extraordinarily fine with short hair, but sometimes he was all alone in front of the computer. However no matter how tired, he was always the friendliest to greet us back to the hotel and asked how we were playing. I'm leaving Istanbul tomorrow, and I want to talk to him before parting.

"Milad, you speak English so well, where did you learn it?" People who speak good English are a rare breed in Turkey.

"I bought books and learned English when I was in military service in Iran," Milad replied inadvertently.

"It turns out that you are an Iranian. Your Turkish is also self-taught?" Every time I saw him talking and laughing with locals, I always thought he was a native Turk.

"Yes, I bought the book myself." He still disagreed.

I did not expect that the front desk these days turned out to be a Xueba. "There are no mobile phones in the barracks, only reading time to pass the time." Milad humbled.

"Then why did you choose to come to Turkey?"

"Because Iran ’s economy is so bad, I studied electrical engineering in Iran ’s universities, but I could n’t find a job after graduation. Iran ’s neighbours, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Turkmenistan, Azerbaijan, Armenia, Turkey, only Turkey ’s economy is good and can be found jobs."

However, seeing that he was sitting on a chair in the front desk of the hotel, he almost withered, and seemed to be incompatible with his profession.

Seeing my frowning frown, he explained: "Foreigners find it difficult to find a good job in Turkey, and I'm quite satisfied with a front office job." His lips curled up slightly.

But seeing that fatigue has been written on his bloodshot eyes, I wonder if there are other reasons besides Ramadan?

"Every day at work is too long. From 7:30 in the morning to 8:30 in the evening, 13 hours. I have no time to spend with my friends, no time to exercise, no time to go to the cinema, it is too tired.

After chatting with more Turks, I learned that such work of more than 12 hours is the normal state of most of them, which made me surprised when I was used to 9-5.

Bosphorus Bridge late at night

"Then what do you want to do now?"

"I want to sit on a ferry in the Bosphorus after fasting, eat buklava (baklava) and blow in the wind."

At this point, he swallowed again and his lips looked drier.

"Then what do you most want to do in the future?"

"I want to return to my old home in Iran after retirement and build a garden of my own." He closed his eyes, opened his arms, and imagined himself in the countryside garden. Then he took out his mobile phone, opened Google Maps, dragged the screen, pointed to the border between western Iran and Turkey and said:

"Look, this is where my future garden will be." The red dots on the phone screen were still green. He stared at the screen of his phone, and couldn't help laughing.

"But aren't you 23 years old now? Why do you dream of living after retirement?" I teased. But hearing this question, a hint of helplessness and embarrassment appeared on his face.

"Yeah, but ..." He didn't know what to say.

After a while he said, "The job is so tired now, I'm not so tired after retirement."

I nodded and said goodbye to him who was still busy behind the counter.

It was getting darker and the fruit shop was lit up outside.

A cannon sounded, and the mosque's proclamation announced the end of a day of fasting. Istanbul was still full of traffic; the tram rang a bell and passed by the hotel, as if the ground was shaking.

The city doesn't know how long it will take to fall asleep. Immediately, a new person will take over from Milad. He has to move to the next stop of his "Ipiao" career, but he can finally feel the coolness of his lips. He may enjoy the ferry on the Bosphorus and enjoy With tea and Buklava, or he may fall asleep early, to save energy for a hard tomorrow; Cem continues his two-sided life, ending the glory of the TV station, he returns to the beloved restaurant, chats with customers and paints pictures With a blueprint for his business empire; Akin may still be on his own stage, showing how everyone expresses different opinions with laughter. This is the life of the three Istanbuls, at least, it is comforting that, despite their different careers and different trajectories, despite their day and night and livelihood, their dreams blend with sweat and footprints, slowly but firmly approaching them.

Citizens fishing on Galata Bridge

Istanbul, this city has been sitting in front of the change of government and religious disputes for more than two thousand years, standing quietly on the main road of the ancient Silk Road, linking the past with the past, and connecting the east and west.

Istanbul, covering how much excitement and prosperity, also hides too much sadness and complexity.

Istanbul, this city.