Turkmenistan

I arrived in North Korea, well, the one in Middle Asia—Turkmenistan. The only difference is that Turkmenistan is much richer with its natural gas.

Before I arrived, I stereotyped its people, imagined they weren't aware of foreign culture, they were stone-cold (opposite of its dessert weather), but, everything changed when I passed the border:

So after giving cash to my previous Syrian cycling mate-Raghdan to return home safely, and paying the post office to send our bikes, I only had 72 dollars in my pocket.

I spent 55 dollars for the Turkmenistan transit visa, 11 dollars hotel in Mashhad, 4 dollars food, 1 dollar for the train to the border, I only had 1 dollar in my pocket.

Before departure, I was informed that I needed to pay the Turkmenistan border 14 dollars as an ”Entry Tax.”

I know it’s not smart to have only 1 dollar in countries like Iran (no Visa or Master card supported) and Turkmenistan, but I had many plan Bs:

1. There is one exchange shop in Mashhad which accepts Visa and PayPal;

2. I can somehow find some Chinese tourists to get some cash via WeChat wallet;

3. I might find tourists at the border for help.

But unfortunately, the exchange shop was closed, I didn’t find single Chinese in the entire city of Mashhad, nor did I find any tourists at the border.

So here is the challenge: how to enter a country with only 1 dollar in my pocket, when 14 is needed.

If you don’t know the answer, neither did I. They led me to the counter to pay the entry tax. In the beginning, I pretended to not understand what “Entry Tax” is, and tried to enter without paying. For sure, this is not how it works in this North Korean country.

So later, I went back to the waiting room before the counter and opened my bag to see if I had safety cash.

I took all my bags out, and surprisingly, I found money! But it was Bosnian KM - 30, equals 15 euros, which should work, right?

But you might have never heard of Bosnia (and Herzegovina) as a country, well, neither did the border police. So after inspected the 30 KM in every possible way, they gave it back to me.

I returned to the waiting room, wondering what I could do now. If I cannot enter Turkmenistan, I also have no money to return to Iran. So I will basically be stuck in the border of two countries unable to enter either.

At this moment, a Turkmen woman, who I talked to on the bus to the border, came to me. She wanted to know what happened, so I showed the number of 14 and my empty pockets.

She seemed to understand and returned to her friends, asking each of them for money : "1 dollar, 1 dollar, 1 dollar, 1 dollar.."

She returned to me, giving me these old, folded-many-times dollars. The rest of her friends also looked at me friendly. At that moment, tears were swimming around my eyes. I didn’t expect these women, to be so kind to help me pass the border.

I tried to ask for her bank account number so I can return the money to her later. But she waved her hand and led me to the border counter.

On the way to the counter, I felt the money I carry was so heavy and so precious. Though I had so enough money in my bank account, none of that was of any use - sometimes the kindness of strangers do.

After paying, I shared my Azerbaijan and Iranian food with these women, but they only took a little, and close the food package. The woman, using her very little English, said: “Take this with you boy. Welcome to Turkmenistan!”

I looked back on them. Their red faces, their smiles, and their 14 dollars will always stay in my mind.

Spasibo. I waved them goodbye.

Do you want to know how I continue my trip in Turkmenistan without cash? Please follow our page and we will tell you more stories on the Silk Road.

~Jerry